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dans-hobbies
United States
Приєднався 19 вер 2013
The woodworking & metalworking projects of a web developer.
Machining Aluminum Extrusion
In this video i show and discuss some of the issues that need to be considered when working with aluminum extrusion.
Переглядів: 2 040
Відео
A 3D Printer For the Shop
Переглядів 1,4 тис.2 роки тому
An overview of why I picked a Railcore II 300ZL printer, and the upgrades I've done to it.
Not So Slow Rust Bluing
Переглядів 74 тис.3 роки тому
A short video demonstrating a simple method for rust bluing steel. Rust bluing is a method that yields a protective black oxide coating on steel.
Timecode Generator Mount
Переглядів 1,3 тис.4 роки тому
In this video I show the machining of a custom adapter that will allow a Tentacle Sync E timecode generator to be mounted to the hot shoe of any camera. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2019/08/05/timecode-generator-mount/
Customized Camera Cage Screws
Переглядів 3,8 тис.4 роки тому
I recently purchased an excellent SmallRig cage for my Panasonic GH5, But the screw used to attach the camera to it didn't live up to my expectations. Thus like any other home shop machinist, I made a custom one.
Turning An Osage Orange Pencil Holder
Переглядів 1,5 тис.5 років тому
A quick weekend project to jazz up the office.
A Boring Bar Grinding Jig
Переглядів 17 тис.5 років тому
A short video showing the the making of a boring bar grinding jig. The jig is designed to make grinding facets on a round shank boring bar easier and more consistent. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2019/04/30/a-boring-bar-grinding-jig/
A Carding Wheel Arbor
Переглядів 9 тис.5 років тому
A short video showing the maching of a custom arbor for a carding wheel. Carding wheels are used in the rust bluing process to remove excess rust that would prevent the formation of a uniform black oxide coating. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2018/12/28/a-carding-wheel-arbor/
A Repeatable Mill Stop
Переглядів 20 тис.5 років тому
A short video showing the maching and the use cases of a repeatable mill stop. The stop can be removed for machining of the work piece and then remounted to locate the next work piece within a tenth or two. The stop will work on either side of the vise, and is adjustable enough to to handle a range of work piece sizes and shapes. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog p...
Making A Birdcage Awl
Переглядів 8 тис.5 років тому
The making of a custom birdcage awl from Bocote, 416 stainless steel, and a high speed steel drill blank. Related links, photos & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2018/07/15/making-a-birdcage-awl/
Bench Grinder Diamond Dresser Part 2
Переглядів 5 тис.6 років тому
The final video in my short series about making a single point diamond dresser for a bench grinder. In this part I make the body of the dresser, the guide bar, as well as show how to use it. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2018/02/08/bench-grinder-diamond-dresser-part-2/
Bench Grinder Diamond Dresser Part 1
Переглядів 6 тис.6 років тому
The first video in a short series about making a single point diamond dresser for my bench grinder. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2018/01/25/bench-grinder-diamond-dresser-part-1/
QCTP Stud Upgrade
Переглядів 179 тис.6 років тому
Machining a custom quick change tool post stud and nut for my lathe. The stud is made from 1144 Stressproof, and the nut is made from annealed 4140. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2017/12/08/qctp-stud-upgrade/
Better Mill Handles
Переглядів 19 тис.6 років тому
Machining quieter and more user user friendly handles for a milling machine. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2017/11/07/better-mill-handles/
Machining A Camera Cheese Plate
Переглядів 3,3 тис.6 років тому
Machining a custom cheese plate for my pre-amp, so that I have more rigging options. Related links & information can be found in the associated blog post here: www.dans-hobbies.com/2017/09/21/machining-a-camera-cheese-plate/
A woodworking & metalworking garage shop
Переглядів 13 тис.7 років тому
A woodworking & metalworking garage shop
I'm old, but new to machining, I had to laugh because I saw your mock up of your stop and said "wow, that looks complicated" and the next line from you was "as you can see from the render, it's a fairly simple design". It does look great and super practical tho. I also really like how you covered your mill with wood
why need locktite? Both sides are always being tightened, unless you reverse the lathe
muito obrigado!
Any RPM over 600-800 is way too fast
i the future i recommend putting it in a vise and using a standard 2 handed tap wrench. you can break off the tap or cause the hole to be wobbled off center.
distilled vinegar can be of various percentages, what percentage vinegar are you using?
Standard 5% you will find in a grocery store!
Nice machine work!
Cast iron is messy!
Clever idea with the stop for the stop. I'm totally going to have to steal this idea from you, thanks!
i would have used the old nut,. cut it down to 1" heigth, drilled and tapped it. bata-bing, bata-boom!
The strenght of the finish is quite impressive. I had a custom bolt and axle for my scooter made and after 3 years in the rain and salt its holding up almost perfectly. (never oiled it again)
Do you use distilled water to boil the part in or just tap water? And do you use typical iodized table salt or non-iodized salt?
I've used distilled, purified, and tap water and not seen any difference. to be fair my local has a pretty clean watercourse. The salt was iodized.
@@Dans-hobbies I'm trying it now with distilled water and non-iodized salt. I can't seem to get the steel past a dark gray color (closer to medium gray than to black). I've repeated it 5 or 6 times, but it hasn't seemed to have gotten any darker since the 3rd or 4th time. I wonder if it's sanded too smooth (I sanded it to 600-grit). Right now I'm going to try letting it sit for an hour after applying the rusting solution to see if that makes any difference.
Old video, but still so relevant, nice one. I'll build mine identical. Thanks
I have a PM25 and want to upgrade to a pm940, can you say if the "M" version is worth saving the money on over the "V"
I've never run a V version, but based on the specs the only real benefit is going to be the higher rpm, and variable speed. given the 2 speed ranges I doubt you are going to have a lot of power at maximum rpm. Imo The power down feed, and hardened ways are better things to spend your money on.
Nice video. I loved the commentary, and all the diff camera angles. Thumbs up and subscribed!
wish we all could own a mill. im over here using a midersaw.
Maybe you needed to upgrade your stud...but I am at a loss why so many people do an upgrade on this part and keep a hexagon nut here instead of installing a handle, doing away with the wrench entirely. There is no wrench used to change tool post holders, why use one to adjust the angle of the QCTP when you can have a dedicated handle?
Imo, it all comes down to usability and use cases. My lathe isn't very big, and I often run into issues where even the qctp handle gets in the way. Add to that, that I don't often need to reposition the tool post, it makes sense for it just to be a nut. If I had a larger lathe, I would probably have a dedicated handle.
Would have been a lot less work to just cut the wrench handle shorter, so you couldn't gorilla fist it.
what is the name of the wheel your using to buff
it's called a carding wheel. www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/.0025-stainless-steel-brushing-wheels/
Hi Dan, can I still access the tecnical drawings for this anywhere?
Hi Tony, At the bottom of each blog post in the project I have a reference section. In the reference section are links to downloadable drawing pdfs. www.dans-hobbies.com/project/lathe-banjo/
@@Dans-hobbies Hi Dan, Thanks for letting me in to location of the drawings, have downloaded them so will be making a start very soon, thanks once again.
@@tonymills7178 No problem, glad you find the drawings useful.
the hub is wood.. so you can drill it for 1/2 or 3/4 inch arbor as you choose. 800 rpm is recommended. I just need a variable speed motor :)
Thank you Dan! Very nice Craftsmanship and very good explanation! 👍
First off McMaster Carr sells drill rod and hardened shafts in nearly EVERY size, so there's no need to re-drill the hole, just buy the shaft that is a thousandth or two bigger than the hole and press it in for a tighter fit.
Remind me not to do shots in your garage....lol
1/16 cup = 1 Tablespoon
if you're making the nut and the bolt why not make the threads imperial ? (just make the bolt to a metric number to fit the hole in the block and then turn down the end to the closest imperial size down and thread it)
Just staying consistent with everything else on the lathe.
@@Dans-hobbies ah ok, but I thought I heard u say it was an imperial lead screw lathe is all
@@BillyTpower It is, but every single fastener on the lathe is metric
Good video overshadowed by the storage of toxic chemicals in a liquor bottle, especially one with the original jabelling - That's an absolute NO NO. I personlly knew a teen who died drinking from a clearly labled liquor bottle.
hi, would this method work with any acids that make the steel rust? thx steve
I'm not sure, as my chemistry knowledge isn't that strong!
If I may give you some advice. If you want a durable finish you must let the chemical do it’s work and that takes time. You must let the rust develop into a fuzz type texture before you neutralize the acid by boiling. No matter what chemical you use to induce rust it should only take you no more than 4 applications of the chemical to get a good dark blue finish. Magnetite (ferrous ferric oxide) is a blue black color. What you are doing in the bluing process is turning ferrous oxide into ferrous ferric oxide but you have to allow time for the ferrous oxide to develop. Take it from a gunsmith, you can’t hurry the process.
Random. I’m doing a build that has original blueing and I have a barrel that’s phosphate parked. Is there a way to make the barrel darker to match the other components without blasting and blueing?
@@Jingles4dingles Not really other than keeping it soaked with oil. You can strip the parkerizing off with some Steel White available at Brownells or you can boil it in some Comet scrubbing compound. Parkerizing is the only protectant that is tougher than rust bluing.
I’ve got a shotgun that I’ve sanded the original finish off and it’s starting to rust and don’t know what to do , what is the easiest finish I can apply ?
@@Robert-em9ny First get some 0000 steel wool and soak it in acetone to remove the oil coating. Boil the steel parts in water for about 30 minutes. The rust will turn black, gentle rub it with steel wool until it has a luster. Get some Art’s Belgium Blue and apply with a cotton ball, don’t scrub it on just wipe it on, boil rub and repeat until the gun is the color you want. That’s the fastest and easiest I’ve found.
@@richardkramer1094 okay thank you I will give it a try
You made a base for your base lol
Really nice design! Just curious if you think the mounts could be made out of 6061 aluminum? I just finished converting a mill to CNC and am thinking about milling these from aluminum. Any thoughts?
Yea, I think would work fine in aluminum, it will just wear a little faster.
@@Dans-hobbies Thanks... I just finished an online course for CAM (Titans Of CNC Building Blocks). This is going to be the first part that I am going to make on my CNC Mill!
Thanks for this. Your original banjo is a masterpiece of engineering compared to the one that came with my lathe.
watching this with morning coffee. priceless. learned a LOT. thanks
Hi, I was wondering if anyone could assist me. I'm trying this method to blue a pistol magazine. The issue I'm having is with an uneven first layer, when I apply the solution it doesn't stick as well, instead of forming a "film" there are areas where the steel seems to "repel" it (kinda like water acts on steel). If I do multiple passes I do get the whole piece covered, whoever not evenly. Is this due to not heating the part first? Bad part cleaning? Or perhaps my solution isn't in the right proportions?
Cleanliness could be part of it, or it could be the steel itself, some steels just don't blue as well as others.
are you handling it with gloves after cleaning? it could be oils from your hand transfering to the metal
Beautiful work!
Just what i am after. Thanks for the review
what cutter do you u with this small lathe and what size is it ?
The inserts are 1/4" CCMT finishing inserts from sandvik. They work perfectly on my small 8x14 lathe, because they are designed for small depths of cut and slow feed rates. www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/product-details?c=CCMT%2006%2002%2004-PF%20%20%20%201515 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040NPEEA/
very nice
When you cut metric threads on an English lathe you CAN use the thread dial. Not the same way as with English threads but for me it works better than the "quick draw" method. Make the initial cut with the thread dial engaged, engage the half nut on any number. When you get to the relief disengage the half nut, then turn the lathe off before the thread dial makes a complete turn. Retract the cutter, then reverse the lathe and engage the half nut when the number comes up again and run the carriage back to the start. Leave the half nut engaged for the next cut and repeat the sequence for each cut. It works great and gives you much more time to stop the lathe and retract the cutter, as long as you don't let the thread dial make a complete revolution.
Very nice, I also like the rests on your grinder. One question, are you using Lawson drill bits?
Hello George, Other than my metric set, I use Triumph Twist Drills Thunderbit line. They are 135 degree bits, and have an excellent multi facet grind. triumphtwistdrill.com/thunderbit/
Hi, can you tell what motor is lifting the milling head?
Hi Pawel, I took the motor off during the actual setup process because it was in the way. with that being said if you jump to after 9:30 in the video you will see it on top of the column as i had reinstalled it by then. It's a small 120V AC gear head motor.
I enjoyed your mod and the drawings. I see that your QCTP fits over the boss. Did you machine this or buy it off the shelf ready to fit?
Hi Bernard, I bought it from the now defunct lathemaster company. it sold the same 8x12/14 that HF does, just with a different branding.
@@Dans-hobbies Sorry Dan my fault I did not ask my question clearly. What I meant was how did you get round the boss on the top slide. Did you cut it off or counter bore the base of the QCTP to accomidate it?
@@bernardstart3553 sorry, It seems i wasn't overly clear either. The QCTP was designed for my lathe by the manufacture, it has a larger bore so it just slides over the boss on top.
@@Dans-hobbies Thank so much for your reply. Sorry it has taken me so long to reply. Trouble is I can bore the bottem of the QCTP to accomodate the top slide boss. But now I will have to shorten the spindle that the three start screw rotates on. The spindle will then have no attachment thread left. Providing one takes care when carrying the QCTP to stop it falling apart it should be OK in operation when the M16 stud clamps the whole lot. What do you think?
@@bernardstart3553 depending on what lathe you have, you might get better results by maching the boss. If you decrease its height and diameter, you might have to bore less material out of the QCTP, thus losing less rigidity.
Great Job! Really enjoyed the video.
Those wood centers are made to drill the size arbor you need.
I think you should check the rated rpm on the carding wheel.
Using a heat gun is definitely not a way I've seen before, I've seen people using a box qnd a heater before which is a slower way but probably better since you aren't blowing it with a blow dryer. Still a good look the way you went with. Just not quite the same as an actual rust blue on the piece.
Junge stell das Ding da drauf und fertig
Damn your good. You have gave me alot of good ideas. How to mount my carding wheel thanks.
My hands are bigger, so I like a larger diameter tool. My design uses an integrated collet style holder, but like yours it allows for reversing the sewing needle tip that I used. Here's my video about hoe I made my version: ua-cam.com/video/KUo02weykkk/v-deo.html
Le invito a ver mi canal modificación en torno Craftsman